Genuine Mercedes-Benz Clutch Master Cylinder

Mercedes-Benz Clutch Master Cylinder Parts and Q&A

• Master Cylinder
  202-290-01-12
  Q: How to remove, overhaul, and refit the clutch master cylinder on Mercedes-Benz 190E?

  A:

  T1087, The clutch master cylinder is within the passenger compartment area, mounted on the brake pedal mounting bracket, but supplied by the brake fluid reservoir, through a flexible rubber extension of flex hose ended into the silencer cup of the engine block. Start with the deconnection of the battery negative lead and the lower facia trim panel of the driver side to gain access to the master cylinder and pedal assembly. Avoid spilling of fluids below the pedals by drawing the carpet aside and covering it. 1. To reduce the loss of fluid, siphon as much brake fluid as possible out of the reservoir with a clean syringe until the level of fluid is below the level of the supply pipe in the clutch master cylinder. Install an appropriate container that fits below the clutch master cylinder to avoid spilling any fluid and then from outside, undo the union of hydraulic pipe and drain out the pipe slowly, and seal both of the unities, because this will stop any dirt and any more fluid leaks. Unscrew the two nuts attaching the master cylinder to the region over which the pedal fits, elevate the clutch pedal and remove the clutch assist spring seat, spring, and washer attached to the pushrod. A screwdriver or pliers removes the circlip binding the end of the master cylinder pushrod to the pedal, and you pull the fluid hose off the master cylinder and pry out the assembly in the footwell. To overhaul, push the dust cover on the push rod out of the cylinder body, so as to access the circlip, remove the circlip with circlip pliers only and so as to take off the retaining washer. Lift out of the cylinder bore the pushrod and piston assembly (then the piston spring), end cap and check valve off the piston. Cleanse all parts using clean hydraulic fluid and look at them to check, whether they have scoring or wear ridges; in case of the latter, change the entire master cylinder. Should components be satisfactory, then get another set of rubber seals, take those off the piston, then take good ones, put them on and grease them using clean hydraulic fluid. Apply lubrication to the cylinder bore, piston, load the spring into the bore, install the check valve and end cap onto the piston and carefully insert the piston into the cylinder bore. Slide the dust cover, retaining washer over the pushrod, with the circlip, making sure it fits into place properly and then slide the retaining washer final into place. Refitting: This is a reversal of the procedure used to remove it, performing the operation with the washer, clutch assist spring, and spring seat on the master pedal pushrod, pushing it into the guide on the pedal bracket with the violation of it, the pushrod eye being positioned with the flanged end to the pedal. Refitting the lower facia panel of the driver side should ONLY be checked after pushrod adjustment. When finished, bleed clutch hydraulic system and test pushrod adjustment. When adjusting the pushrod, engage the parking brake, lift the front part of the car using a jack and place it firmly on axle stands. Clean off half the fluid in the brake fluid reservoir with a clean syringe, put a few thin metal strips between upper chuck pedal stop and rubber buffer and clean up any dirt around the slave cylinder bleed screw. Install a spanner and tube on the bleed screw and line the tube with pressure-bleeding equipment, and slacken the bleed screw. In the driver footwell, loosen the slack, clamp screw of the eccentric pushrod adjusting screw in the top of the clutch pedal, having an auxiliary note the fluid level in the reservoir, and fiddle with the eccentric adjusting screw until the fluid level begins to rise, and then under the footwell gradually radius the unscrewed eccentric adjusting screw until the fluid level begins to stabilize. Fix the adjusted screw into position by tightening the clamp screw, remove the metal strips and make sure that fluid level increases. Tighten bleed screw, remove the pressure-bleeding equipment and hose then re-fit bleed screw dust cap. Fills up the reservoir water tank to the highest point, examines the functionality of the mechanism behind the clutch during engine running time and lastly, attaches the lower facia panel on the driver's side.
• Master Cylinder
  203-290-02-12-64
  Q: How to remove and install the clutch master cylinder on Mercedes-Benz C230?

  A:

  In order to disconnect the clutch master cylinder, the first step is to disconnect the cable with the negative terminal of the battery. Following this, take away the driver side knee bolster and disconnect the electrical connector with the brake light switch. Next remove the clip to which the hydraulic line is fastened to the master cylinder of the clutch, with rags on hand in case of leakage, and seal with a plug. Then take out the nuts that hold the pedal assembly to the firewall and the pedal assembly, and pull out the hydraulic line out of the clutch master cylinder and plug it to prevent leaks. Lift the clip that holds the pivot pin of the clutch peddle and withdraw the pin. Lastly, remove the pins and hold the clutch master cylinder in place to the pedal assembly and then remove the master cylinder. To install, have to be done in the reverse sequence of removal and in case of extremely low fluid level fill the brake master cylinder reservoir with the recommended fluid, but care should be taken not to fill it completely because as the clutch components wear, the fluid will rise.