Before going to work, you should reduce the loss of fluids when filling up any pipe or hose by first sealing the master cylinder reservoir cover with polythene. You can also use flexible hoses and seal them using a brake hose clamp, or seal metal brake pipe union with a brake pipe union plug or brake pipe union cap by moving in order to avoid dirt getting into the system. Any union should have a wad of rag put below it to absorb spilled fluid. To loosen that flexible hose, loosen the brake pipe union nut and then remove the spring clip attached to the hose. A brake pipe spanner of correct size is best used to unscrew the union nuts, although an open-ended spanner that fits closely can be used carefully to avoid rounding off the nuts. It can be required only when the stubborn nuts show themselves; then a self-locking wrench can be required; the damaged nuts and pipe should then be replaced at reassembly. Before removing the connections, change of union and surrounding area should always be cleaned, and connection at the multiple ends should be noted: to prevent any dirt entering the hydraulic system marked notes must be made of each connection. Union nut bare brake pipes perforated with union end flares (brake pipes may also use ANOE flares) and kits consisting of bare brake pipes with flares and nuts are available at dealers or assemblies at accessory shops (for details, see below). When relevant, refitting also implies that union nuts should not be over tightened with pipes and hoses in place where they belong. Installation Once installed, take away the polythene sheet in the reservoir, bleed the hydraulic system, rinse off any spilled fluid and check the leaks. Lastly, motor braking system has to be thoroughly tested before the vehicle is reintroduced into the service of the people.