Genuine Mercedes-Benz 190E Shock Absorber

Mercedes-Benz 190E Shock Absorber Parts and Q&A

• Shock Absorber
  201-320-11-31
  Q: How to remove, overhaul, and refit a shock absorber on Mercedes-Benz 190E?

  A:

  New shock absorber upper mounting nuts, a shock absorber to steering knuckle upper bolt nut, and lower retaining bolts will be required on refitting. Begin by chocking the rear wheels, applying the parking brake, jacking up the front of the vehicle, and supporting it on axle stands before removing the appropriate roadwheel. While the shock absorber is removed, support the lower arm using a jack and a block of wood or compress the coil spring with a suitable spring compressor. Slacken and remove the two lower bolts securing the shock absorber to the steering knuckle, then remove the nut and washer to withdraw the upper bolt. From within the engine compartment, unscrew the strut upper mounting nuts and carefully lower the strut assembly out from underneath the wing. With the strut removed, clean away all external dirt and mount it upright in a vice. Slacken and remove the upper mounting plate nut while retaining the shock absorber piston with a suitable Allen key, then lift off the mounting plate and upper mounting assembly after removing the nut and washer. Remove the rubber bump stop from the piston, release the retaining clip, and slide off the dust gaiter from the shock absorber. Examine the shock absorber for signs of fluid leakage, check the piston for pitting, and inspect the shock body for damage. Test the operation of the shock absorber by moving the piston through full and short strokes, ensuring the resistance is smooth and continuous; if not, renewal is necessary. Inspect all other components for damage or deterioration and renew any suspect parts. Fit the dust gaiter to the shock absorber, ensuring the lower end is correctly positioned and secured with the retaining clip. Slide the rubber bump stop onto the shock absorber piston and fit the upper mounting, followed by the upper mounting plate and washer, securing it with a new nut while retaining the shock absorber piston and tightening the mounting plate nut to the specified torque. Engage the upper end of the dust gaiter with the lip on the base of the upper mounting. Before refitting, clean the threads of the shock absorber to steering knuckle lower bolt holes with a tap of the correct thread size and pitch. Manoeuvre the shock absorber into position and fit the new upper mounting nuts, ensuring the knuckle is correctly located with the shock absorber. Insert the steering knuckle upper retaining bolt and washers, fit the new nut, and secure the two new lower bolts to the knuckle. With all bolts loosely fitted, pull the shock absorber upwards to contact the steering knuckle lug, then tighten the two lower bolts to the specified torque setting before tightening the upper bolt nut. Remove the jack or spring compressor as applicable and tighten the upper mounting nuts to the specified torque. Finally, refit the roadwheel, lower the vehicle to the ground, and tighten the wheel bolts to the specified torque.
• Shock Absorber
  201-320-09-31
  Q: Is it necessary to perform a front shock absorber and steering check in the petrol engine on Mercedes-Benz 190E?

  A:

  When testing the front drive and steering, it is best to first lift up the front of the car and place it on axle supports. Examine dust-covers of balljoints, looking for any splits or chafing on surfaces or blemishes, since worn covers may lose lubricant and become contaminated, resulting in quick decay of the balljoints. Squeeze steering box mountings to recommended torque values. On power-steer vehicles, inspect the hoses that connect the fluid to the steering box and hose malfunctions, and look for leaks in the pipe and hose unions plus evidence of fluid leakage under pressure out of the steering box. Hold the roadwheel at 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock and seek to rock; some gentle movement is usual, but excessive movement can pose further concern. Rocking the wheel with an assistant pressing the footbrake will cancel or flatten the movement, evidence that the hub bearings are faulty, otherwise the suspension joints or mountings could be worn. Then hold the 9 o'clock and the 3 o'clock pieces of the wheel to examine whether there is any movement, which may mean that the hub bearings or steering track-rod balljoints wear down. With a large screwdriver / flat bar, look at the wear on the cars suspension mounting bushes, it is normal to find slight movement here because of the rubber material, but wear should be obvious. Checking the linkage joints, mountings, and the steering column universal joint Check the wear of joints Check the wear of vehicle steering column by adjacent steering wheel and roadwheels Assisted by another worker by rotating the steering wheel slightly forward and back whilst watching the lost movement between steering wheel and roadwheels. In the case of suspension strut and shock absorber, note: exhibits leakage of fluid about the body or around the rubber gaiter: fluid leakage indicates internal fault, and remove both, which should be replaced together on the same axle. The performance of the suspension strut or shock absorber can be tested by bouncing the vehicle to each corner; it should spring back in its normal position without bouncing back too much. Also check the mountions on the upper and the bottom to see where it may be worn.