To test the crankshaft endfloat, have a crankshaft in place but freely floating in the cylinder block or crankcase. While determining the endfloat, hold a dial gauge and press the crankshaft fully in any direction and set the gauge to zero, and then press the crankshaft fully in the other direction. Divide the result against the amount mentioned to see whether new thrustwasher halves are required, but all thrustwashers must be the same thickness. In some types of engines, feeler blades can be used to check the spacing between the crankpin web, and thrustwasher halves, when no dial gauge is available. To check, wipe the crankshaft with paraffin or any other solvent and make sure that the oil holes are clear. Inspect the big-end and main bearing journals regarding wear, scoring, pitting and cracking. Wear of big-end bearings can create metallic knock and loss of oil pressure, whereas bearings on the main bearers can create serious vibration and rumble, and the main bearer wear increases rapidly with higher engine speed. Be sure to check the bearing journal which requires roughness means that the journal needs to be regrinded or renewed. Unless the crankshaft has been reground, check the burrs on its surroundings detect the oil holes and clean them up. Check main and big-end bearing journals diameter, repeat measures with a micrometer checking out-of-roundness, and taper. Check the contact surfaces of oil seals; any deep grooves may require specialist attention by way of repairing or replacing. Assuming that the journals have not been reground, they may be reconditioned by means of oversize shells; otherwise they may be worn out, and it may be found advisable to renew them, more details being inquired of a dealer or an expert in the engine anyway.